Хлопковый
/хлопчатый
and хлопчатобумажный
indeed mean the same thing. As for why the second form is used instead of the first one, which is both more intuitive and shorter - here's a quote from Wikipedia:
В русской технической литературе до второй половины XIX века вместо
слова «хлопок» применяли термин «хлопчатая бумага», сохранившийся до
настоящего времени в словах: хлопчатобумажная ткань, хлопчатобумажная
промышленность и других.
So, your assumption is wrong – it has not started in Soviet times. This word indeed is used in books starting from XIX century. Actually one can trace even to earlier times. Here's a quote from document dated 1745:
Здесь же при Астрахани, хотя по опытам довольно видно, что делание
шелка и сеяние бумаги хлопчатой немалую приносить может пользу.
As for ситец
, in the same article you can find that it is a "лёгкая хлопчато-бумажная гладкокрашеная или набивная ткань, получаемая в результате специальной отделки сурового миткаля". So, it is a sort of fiber made of cotton, one of many. Just like миткаль, бумазея, бязь, вельвет and others.
And one final note. Just like @Matt correctly noted, most probably "бумага" is derived from Italian word (derived in turn from a Latin one) which stood for cotton. It is very likely but no one knows for sure actually. Also, in other Slavic languages, even in the closest to Russian бумага
is not used for paper at all, but for cotton we have:
- бавовна in Ukrainian
- бавоўна in Belarusian
- bawełna in Polish
- bombaž in Slovenian.
It is very disputable how exactly these forms find their way into the languages mentioned above, we can end up finding ourselves in the land of stupid pseudo-linguistic assumptions. Most probably these words are related but definitely not always directly with бумага
.
German word "Baumwolle"
- Baum stands for "tree" AFAIR, and wolle... worm?